CLUTCH NOTES
 

BLEEDING
 
New clutch slave cylinders will arrive with the bleeder screw installed in one of the two holes on the end of the slave cylinder.  This bleeder screw may not be in the correct hole.  Make sure the bleeder screw is located in the upper hole when the slave cylinder is attached to the bell housing body.  If, as was the case on both of my cars, the bleeder screw is located on the lower hole it will be harder to bleed the clutch properly and you will need to move things around to correct the error.

Bleeding the clutch is much the same as bleeding the brakes.  You can use a friend to press the clutch pedal, or use a vacuum pump or other hydraulic bleeding tool if you are working alone.  Be sure you have removed all air bubbles before you are finished bleeding the clutch lines.  The master cylinder does not hold much brake fluid.  Have a friend stationed to watch it closely, or make frequent trips to the top side of the car if you have to monitor the fluid level yourself.  Only a couple of pumps on a vacuum pump will empty the reservoir.

As with the brakes, the clutch brake fluid should be replaced once a year.

 

 ADJUSTMENT
Start by removing the spring between the slave cylinder and the clutch release arm.

Adjust the gap between the slave cylinder rod and the clutch release arm so that there is a very small amount of free play between the two mating surfaces.  Failure to leave a gap will cause the clutch to release completely.  Too much gap will fail to release the clutch completely when the pedal is depressed.

NOTE: If your clutch disk appears to be worn out crawl under the dash and check the free play between the master cylinder to the clutch pedal arm before you remove the engine and transmission. 

Any or all of the three components that make up this connection  can wear, causing the clutch pedal to travel a shorter distance than it should, and not moving the master cylinder piston as far as it should.  This will create the same failure to disengage effect as would be caused by a worn out clutch disk.

Suggestions for repairing these worn parts include:

  • If only the clutch pedal hole is worn you can weld it shut and re-drill the hole to the correct size.  If the U connector is worn you may need to replace it with a new or lesser worn part. A worn clevis pin should be replaced at this time as well.
  • Drill the clevis pin holes in both the clutch pedal and the master cylinder U connector to match a larger diameter clevis pin.